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Archives for November 2011

METRO – 60 Second Interview

November 30, 2011 By Nancy Lam Leave a Comment

After quitting nursing to open a restaurant, Nancy Lam first came to public attention as Channel 5’s flamboyant launch chef. Her direct style soon made her and her husband Ben the most famous couple to hit the kitchen since Fanny and Johnny Craddock.

When was your last holiday?
I just got back from spending 16 days in Geneva. We went to rest – not to deposit money. I did try to deposit all my coppers but the Swiss told me they were too brown so I had to bring them back. You do not need to rest in life. Living in the city is too hectic and fast.

Are you still rude to customers?
Yes – we just have a good laugh really and they love it. It’s my home and I can do what I want but not in front of children. If there are children there, we don’t do such things – the same if people have straight faces. We know the ones we can have a laugh with and we just have a nice time.

Why does my Chinese never taste like the takeaway variety?
You have to make sure that everything is the right size. Cut the meat quite thinly – don’t buy the stuff that’s already in chunks. The vegetables shouldn’t be cut into big chunks that you can’t fit into your mouth because they don’t stir well. You know how a cauliflower has florets? Cut the big florets into four and leave the small ones – that’s a fantastic guideline for how big all the veg should be.

It’s the sauce I have trouble with…
Always use wine and oyster sauce or fish sauce. If you are a vegetarian use soya sauce – it’s heaven

What are your ten condiments for stir-fry?
Its a bit too early for me to remember them all but make sure your wok is hot and your fire high and mighty. Cut the vegetables as I have said. Always cut the meat against the grain, keep the sauce by your side and the wine not in your throat but in the dish….Is that enough? It must be.

So, is it all stir-fry at home?
No, I cook the odd roast – or at least Ben does. I also do stews and spaghetti. But I spice my bolognese without tomato and it ends up being oriental-style. Spaghetti is a noodle after all – it just has a different name.

What’s your motto?
Be truthful to yourself when you are in the kitchen. Once you enjoy cooking, you will love the taste of it. It should make your mouth water and make you feel sexy.

Is sex in the kitchen important?
Yes, of course. If two people are in the kitchen together, it’s always important to kiss and cuddle. When I’m in our little kitchen with Ben we are always bum to bum – it may be annoying sometimes if someone treads on your foot but if you love them you get over it.

Then what about Marco Pierre White saying a woman has to become a man in the kitchen to compete?
In the olden days – when people cooked for the emperors in the Orient – there were no women in the kitchens. It was always men who cooked as they were the only ones who could carry the heavy woks and pans – the women had to be breeders. These days, you can just get a man to carry the pans for you.

How do you stop spectacles steaming up in the kitchen? 
You can’t – there’s no way to do it other than to try to face the pans across you and keep your distance. They only steam up when you get too close.

Who is the best TV chef?
There are so many of them it’s not fair to tell you one name rather than another. If I really like one of them – it has to be Keith Floyd. I know I don’t drink and he does but we both have a laugh and try to be inspirational.

Did you have a strict upbringing?
Very much so. My father would never let us lie in and sleep. He would always get us up early and tell us what to do. My grandmother was just as bad – she believed women should learn. If we did something wrong, she would make us peel the onions and you know how hot they can be.

Why did you leave nursing?
We had three children and simply couldn’t afford to live on those wages.

Away from the wok, how do you relax?
I paint – I do a lot of watercolours but I can’t paint if I’m sad, I have to get rid of the sadness first. If I had no business, I’d spend half the time painting and the other in my garden. I have a roof garden where I do a lot of thinking and praying. I’m not a religious woman, though – my church and my own temple is my body.

 

 

 

Filed Under: Press Tagged With: interview

Waitrose Food Eating Out – Marco Pierre White

November 14, 2011 By Nancy Lam 1 Comment

Few things these days can force me to stray south of the river (for those who don’t understand the minutiae of geographical prejudice in the capital, this means crossing the Thames and venturing into the likes of Battersea or Wandsworth). For it was in Wandsworth, the more alert of you may recall, that I had a restaurant called Harvey’s. I got two Michelin stars for the place. People came for the food and also, I’m told because they had an expectation that I might emerge from my kitchen and demonstrate what you could call a controlled explosion. And it’s true that I did remonstrate with and sling the occasional customer out – always for good reason, of course.

but all in all, I feel that I’ve done Wandsworth, so if I do stray back to those far-off, southern pastures it is really for one reason only: to visit Nancy Lam’s wonderful Indonesian and Far Eastern restaurant, Enak Enak.

It’s one of those places that you visit so you can eat an individual’s food and be looked after by them. Now, you might think that’s stating the obvious, but too many restaurants these days attempt to cook food they think they should serve in an atmosphere they only imagine to be right.

Nancy herself is a great cook but her restaurant is a family affair – Ben, her Ghanaian-born husband, cooks too and her children serve. I love family-run places. Before you ask, however, I have never considered opening a place run by my own family. Everyone is too emotional. If we opened on a Monday, by the weekend we wouldn’t have any customers left.

There is an honesty, meanwhile, about Enak Enak and I love how Nancy, middle right, shouts – in a nice way – at her customers. She opened it 21 years ago and today she’s like the eccentric restauranteur Peter Langan – she has his warmth and that same ability to make people feel special.

And the food matches her knowledge and skills. How many times has a chef shared his or her impressive-sounding philosophy with you, only to deliver food that is a huge disappointment?

On my most recent trip to Nancy’s, I took my wife, Mati, and we ordered lots of dishes that we shared. I love the concept of sharing, mainly because I love nicking tasty food off other people’s plates, and this legitimises it.

First out was some perfectly marinated chicken satay, middle left, cooked on charcoal – the way that they prepare street food in Indonesia. It came with peanut sauce, which they declare on the menu is ‘made from scratch’. The chicken was wonderfully juicy, thanks to its marinade, and they’re right to be proud of that nutty sauce. We had a couple of seafood dishes: ‘sexy salmon’ cooked in lemongrass and coconut sauce (a saucy little number indeed), and some deep-fried squid with spring onions and chilli, top right, which was properly fresh and tender. We also had pad Thai – rice noodles with prawns, chicken bean sprouts, peanuts and God knows what else. It worked like a dream.

Pudding could have been pancakes stuffed wit coconut, bottom middle, but I chose nothing. I simply wanted to remember the time, one summer, that Nancy asked me to lunch at her house. She served us homemade peach ice cream, from her own fruit. If she put that on the menu, she’d get a Michelin star. But I wouldn’t want that because too many people would end up crossing the north/south divide.

Mr Ishii says…
“You know I like this restaurant”, says MPW’s special assistant. “I get a good family feeling here. But I try to find the right word to describe the food. I search my brain and now I have it. This word is tasty. Because the food is tasty. Very tasty. I like my food to be tasty and this place serves tasty food.”

By Marco Pierre White

http://www.waitrose.com

Filed Under: Press Tagged With: article, marco pierre white, waitrose

Popular Indonesian Curries

November 14, 2011 By Nancy Lam Leave a Comment

Curry is a popular cuisine among the Southeast Asian countries particularly in Indonesia, Malaysia, Japan, India and Thailand. The curry food recipe from the different Asian countries is using the same ingredients like the curry paste and coconut milk or gravy but varies on the preparation and style of cooking. The cooking style or method used had been influence by the different culture and tradition. 

In every curry dish, basic curry paste is the primary ingredient. It is made from a blend of powdered herbs or spices mixed with other seasoning. The following ingredients and spices are also used such as coconut milk, lemon grass, turmeric, candlenut, cardamom, belacan, coriander powder, star Anise, galangal and other common seasoning. 

Indonesian curry differs from other countries in its culinary preparation that has been passed from one generation to the next. In indonesia, rice is important in an authentic meal. It is either boiled or steamed with coconut milk or spices. Hence curry is prepared by layering of rice flavours with various spices like chilli, ginger, garlic, pepper, turmeric, cumin and curry leaves.  

One of the most popular Indonesians cuisines found in many restaurant is the rendang chicken. It is a dry curry with less and very thick sauce that soaked the meat thus making the dish so flavourful and mouth-watering. The traditional Indonesian cooking always contains the three tastes, sweet, sour and salty flavours. The fiery heat of spices such as chilli adds richness to the dish. The rendang recipe includes chicken, coconut milk, soy sauce, trassi or shrimp paste, sambal oelek, cumin, coriander, turmeric, and other common seasonings. The preparation and cooking time for rendang chicken is approximately one hour and twenty minutes. In other restaurant or food shop, rendang chicken is replaced by beef or lamb. 

The richly-flavoured curries in Indonesian restaurant Enak Enak comes from essential spices such as coriander powder, cumin, and turmeric. Salty and sweet soy sauces are also used as marinades and sauces. Other common seasonings include lemon, garlic, lemongrass, ginger, kaffir lime leaves, coriander, tamarind, and basil.

In general, the spices used in the preparation have great influence in the curry dishes. The Indian curry is fiery hot in contrast with the Indonesian curries which have a rich and thick consistency.

Filed Under: Indonesian Food Tagged With: curry, Indonesian curry, rendang

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Nancy Lam is a restaurateur and TV chef specialising in Indonesian and Asian food

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